A guide to world cities: Mixing business with pleasure

Although it's better known for its cafes, bars and lovers, Paris has always been open for business. What makes it enjoyable is that Parisians seem to have cracked the work-life balance: keeping Europe's third largest economy ticking over while maintaining their joie de vivre, writes Sarah Turner

As Victor Hugo put it: 'to err is human, to loaf is Parisian.' This, after all, is a city where workers still fill cafes for a leisurely lunchtime meal; where restaurants will often shut for the whole of August without the owners fearing bankruptcy and, most impressively of all, where the president found time to woo and wed a supermodel. Does Gordon Brown practice the same work-life balance? Unlikely.

Some of the methods may be alien to its neighbour across the Channel but as you observe - in a leisurely, civilised way - the cafe culture and the legion of small businesses it soon becomes clear that the French do business in a very continental way. If Napoleon characterised the British as a nation of shopkeepers, then the French are artisans who cling onto the notion of skilled trades people, whether it's fashion, cooking or the arts. And it's hard not to acknowledge that doing business in Paris can be intensely pleasurable. After all, the average French person works a life-enhancing 617 hours a year (compare that to the workaholic Briton who manages to ratchet up 800 hours). Even the language seems more creative across the Channel. Whereas we talk of tax shelters, in France the equivalent term is a "paradis fiscal" conjuring up images of the financially astute counting their ill-gotten gains under tropical skies, cocktail in hand.

In Paris, business and pleasure are expected to mix. And what other city has its financial and fashion centres at chiselled cheek by polished jowl? The Bourse, Paris' stock exchange, is next to couture-minded Place des Victoires and Rue Etienne Marcel. Here you'll find boutiques such as Kenzo as well as avant garde designers Comme des Garçons and Yohji Yamamoto. Even more impressively, come early evening the two tribes mix easily in the area's bars and restaurants.

Rod Stewart is not usually known for his cultural insights. It is however, difficult to spend time in the French capital without agreeing with him that nobody in Paris looks as if they are subjected to the pressures of full-time employment.

But still, the country must be doing something right. France has the third largest economy in Europe. The luxury market is performing well. LVMH - overseen by Bernard Arnault - which reaches out to both fashion (including Louis Vuitton and Givenchy) and wines and spirits (including most of the leading champagne houses) saw sales rise by 12 per cent in 2006. Its luxury market rival PPR, which owns Gucci and Yves St Laurent put in an even more impressive performance, with an 18 per cent rise. Together they are worth $25bn in sales.

Tourism is another strong element in the Parisian economy. France is the most popular country in the world among tourists and Paris received 13.5 million visitors in 2007; it is estimated that one in 10 jobs are in the tourism sector. And as the French capital, it is sitting pretty, overseeing a country with a solid manufacturing base, particularly in agriculture, pharmaceuticals and the automotive and aerospace industries.

The euro may be riding high against both the dollar and the pound at the moment but the average Parisian can find much to be gloomy about. Sarkozy's whirlwind romance with Carla Bruni has distracted attention from his mission to reform his country's lavish pension schemes for public workers (which in France includes actors and opera singers). It isn't a particularly unionised city - only nine per cent of workers belong to a trade union but strikes are usually enthusiastically supported. A sense of counter-culture remains strong, 40 years after the student uprising of 1968. Jérôme Kerviel, accused of losing €4.1bn while in the employ of Société Générale, has been hailed as a hero by Paris's left-wingers in a way that eluded Barings' Nick Leeson.

Over the past 25 years, the unemployment rate in France has been at least eight per cent. As a job creation scheme, the 35-hour working week, introduced by then Prime Minister Lionel Jospin in 2000, remains controversial: employers maintain that its inflexibility is hampering growth. Another job-creation scheme, the first-job contract scheme for young people, was dropped after waves of protest in 2006. The healthcare system, a source of French national pride, is one of the most expensive in Europe, taking nearly half of the GDP. With the economy forecast to grow by just two per cent this year, taxation remains high, the bureaucracy is swollen, the riots of 2005 shocked the city, but somehow, Paris thrives.

Its socialist mayor, Bertrand Delanoë is dynamic, putting money into public housing and green initiatives. The Vélib' bike scheme, launched last year, has been a huge success. Parisians have signed up in droves. In return for a nominal sum, they have access to 20,000 bicycles in 750 different locations throughout the city. In general, France may have been slow to embrace the digital age, but Paris has bucked the trend. To ensure that his city is fully wired, Delanoë is offering fibre-optic companies access to Paris' historic sewers and mixing history with some very 21st century tax incentives.


Sleeping

Paris has 75,000 hotel rooms to choose from, ranging from atmospheric but basic two-star establishments to millionaire-dependent high luxury. Budget hotels can be found throughout Paris but there's a particular concentration on the Left Bank, near the Sorbonne. Good choices include the Hôtel le Clément and the Hôtel Lindbergh. Mid-range hotels are also very good value for money in Paris.

The Le Méridien chain has several large hotels throughout the city but you'll also find elegance and history at the Hôtel de l'Abbaye in the Latin Quarter and the Hôtel Lenox in the 7th arrondissement. Paris also has a clutch of historic five-star hotels; these include the Hôtel de Crillon overlooking the Place de la Concorde, the Four Seasons George V and the Ritz in the Place Vendôme. For high-spenders, the latter has the Imperial Suite as well as the suite where Coco Chanel took up residence for more than 30 years. It also has an extremely good swimming pool. Younger fashionistas are often loyal to the Hôtel Costes.


Essential etiquette

The French still address each other in a formal way. A copious use of Monsieur, Madame and Mademoiselle is still normal, while at political meetings you can still hear the audience addressed as 'travailleurs'.

It is perfectly acceptable to make jokes about President Sarkozy. There is little point in scheduling meetings for July or August - much of Paris relocates to the seaside. Dressing the part is predictably important in fashion-conscious Paris. Business attire is usually conservative, and your French counterpart is likely to note the quality of your tie, cufflinks, necklace or earrings. Navy blue remains an important colour for both sexes.


Eating and entertainment

Paris is justly proud of its restaurants. Rising stars of the culinary scene include Hélèn Darroze at Toustem and the young American chef Daniel Rose at Spring, but the grand dames continue to prosper. You'll find classic French cuisine at Le Grand Véfour, where Napoleon, Victor Hugo and Sartre all indulged and at the grand hotels, including Les Ambassadeurs at the Hôtel de Crillon, pictured. Paris' bistros have an unchanging quality; Au Pied de Cochon is open around the clock for pig trotters and a deeply delicious onion soup. For breakfast in more opulent surroundings, Café de la Paix is open from 7am each day, and dispenses coffee and croissants under stucco and gilded ceilings. Tea is taken very seriously at Laudrée; there are branches at in the Champs Elysees and the rue Royale whereas Angelina is justly famous for the quality of its hot chocolate. The Stade de France is the main stadium for football and rugby, while the annual Tour de France climaxes on the Champs Élysées and the French Open takes place at the Stade Roland Garros. More participatory, twice a week large groups of rollerbladers meet to skate around the city. In summer months, the Piscine Joséphine Baker swimming pool is moored on the Seine by the Bibliothéque Nationale.

French is the official language. Most Parisians speak some English, although they appreciate visitors trying to communicate in their own language.


Language

Good morning/afternoon: Bonjour
Goodbye: Au revoir
How are you? Comment allez-vous?
Do you speak English? Parlez-vous anglais?
I don't speak French: Je ne parle pas le français
Yes: Oui
No: Non
I don't understand: Je ne comprends pas
I would like: Je voudrais ...
I am called: Je m'appelle ...
I am English/Scottish/Welsh/Irish: Je suis anglais(e)/ écossais(e)/gallois(e)/irlandais(e)

Currency £1 = €1.34
Retail therapy: Luxury shopping is concentrated around the Avenue Montaigne, where you'll find outposts of Dior, Prada and Dolce & Gabbana. Galeries Lafayette is one-stop for both designer clothing, perfumes and gourmet food. There is a separate store devoted to household goods. The Marais houses young designers and, as an added bonus, many of the shops are open on Sunday. Many small shops are shut on Sunday, Monday and in August.
Time zone: Paris is usually one hour ahead of GMT and British Summer Time Media: Le Monde offers a left-of-centre perspective while Le Figaro has a more conservative reputation. Parisians get their gossip from Paris Match while the satirical Le Canard Enchaîné is published each Wednesday.
Climate: Winters are generally cool while the summer months of July and August can be extremely hot.
Phone: IDD is +33. UK mobile phones will usually pick up local networks. Internet: Many cafes offer free wifi. Paris' parks also offer free access.