A weekend in Brussels
For a town that’s been in the grip of an identity crisis and has existed without a government for more than 150 days, Brussels is a remarkably sane and well-ordered place. Belgium is a very young country – having been inexistence for just 177 years, and nobody is entirely sure how many more years it will survive.
If you arrive in town by Eurostar, you may find the scruffy Bruxelles Midi station a bit of a let down after the glitz and glam of the newly-minted St Pancras Station and the exhilaration of zipping along at 186mph. But don’t be downhearted – this is a town with plenty of style and panache.
First thing on Saturday morning, get off the tourist track by making your way to the Place du Jeu de Balle where you’ll find a huge flea market. The Belgians are great recyclers, making Brussels a treasure trove for collectors. At this market you can get your hands on anything from fine antiques to a complete set of Rocky movies on VHS.
Carry on by meandering along the Rue Blaes where you can dip in and out of its many fabulous antique shops along the way. In no time at all, you’ll arrive at the Place du Grand Sablon (
sablonantiquesmarket.com). This square will introduce you to one of the best things about Belgium: its chocolate.
And the chocolate you can find in the Sablon is the best in Brussels. Scrap that. It’s home to the best chocolate in the world. There are two shops that you simply have to visit: Pierre Marcolini (
marcolini.be/en/accueil.html) and Wittamer (
wittamer.com).
Go into Pierre Marcolini first. But before you cross the hallowed doorstep, assume the correct reverential attitude to this eponymous temple to the craft of chocolate. Over several floors are a range of his sweet delights, including such delicacies as ganache with jasmine and chocolate from Madagascar and Peru.
Buy a box of chocolates. The biggest you can afford. Tell yourself that you’ll take them home with you. Then, just before you leave, buy a replacement. The first lot will, by then, have been inevitably eaten.
Although the chocolate cakes in the ground floor window are like miniature works of art, harden your heart and head out across the square to Wittamer with its pretty, bright pink canopies. Opened in 1910 by Henri Wittamer, it is still a family run business. You’ll need to allow yourself a good twenty minutes perusing the collection of cakes before buying yourself a reasonable selection to eat for tea later in the day.
All of this admiration of food will have put your stomach in mind for lunch. So head to the Lola Brasserie (33 Place du Grand Sablon, Bruxelles 1000; +32 2 514-2460), where you can sip champagne, eat oysters and watch the beautiful people walking in the square.
After a good lunch, head back to your hotel for a restorative nap. And bring your blood sugar up to its normal levels when you wake up with your treasured parcel of Wittamer patisserie and cup of good, hot tea. Yum.
One day in Brussels
Brussels is the birthplace of the Art Nouveau architectural movement, which started in 1893 in the town’s suburbs. This movement was led by Victor Horta and Paul Hankar and then spread to Paris, Barcelona and Glasgow.
Although many were torn down in the 1960s, there are still some fine Art Nouveau buildings still standing. Right in the heart of the city, on the edge of the Palace Royale is the Musée des Instruments de Musique (Rue Montagne de la Cour 2, Brussels 1000; +32 02 545-0130;
mim.fgov.be) – the museum of musical instruments. This used to be the Old England department store and was designed by Paul Saintenoy in 1899.
This excellent example of Art Nouveau is a beautiful construction, both inside and out. Its windows are framed with curving wrought iron and intricate details abound. It was restored and re-opened in 2000 and is now home to 6,000 musical instruments.
If the idea of admiring violins and saxophones doesn’t grab you, then skip the museum and take the lift up to the top floor to the tearoom and restaurant where you can ejoy spectacular views out over the city.
If time spent at the MIM – as it’s known to the locals – has whetted your appetite for more Art Nouveau, then its time to head out to Ixelles, where there’s a high concentration of these architectural gems.
At 224 Avenue Louise is the Hôtel Solvay, which was built by Victor Horta in 1898, although he was unknown when he designed this house of wrought iron and curved stone. Then walk north along Avenue Louise and turn left into rue Paul-Emile Janson.
Here you’ll find the Hôtel Tassel, which was also built by Horta. At the end of the street, turn right into rue Faider and then look out for the number 48 rue Defacqz – a house built by Paul Hankar in 1897. Further along is another of his buildings at number 71, which was also his studio.
After all this walking, you’ll be longing to find somewhere to chill out and relax with a drink. Luckily the fantastic Café Belga is also located in Ixelles at Place Eugène Flagey Plein. This huge bar and restaurant is located in the former Maison de la Radio and is a hip hang-out for everyone from students to young parents.
For dinner, head back into the centre of town to have dinner at Strofilia on 11-13 rue du Marché aux Porcs. This Greek restaurant is a universe away from a trashy joint with nasty food and too much ouzo. The location in a former pig market gives it a very New York feel and the food, wine and service are all excellent.
If, after a good selection of Greek meze, you feel that the night is still young then head to Cirio on 18-20 rue de la Bourse. Named after the Italian grocer, whose name can still be found on cans of Italian plum tomatoes, he shipped his goods to here from Turin. The deli has since folded but the fantastic ornamentation has remained and it’s an elegant spot in which to sip white wine.
One hour in Brussels
If, after a day of back-to-back meetings, you have only one hour to spend in Brussels then hail a cab and head straight for the Grand Place. This square was described by Victor Hugo as the ‘most beautiful square in the world’ and it has now be designated a World Heritage site by UNESCO.
It has always been the focus of the social and cultural life of the city, having once been a medieval market and even a place of execution. Today it is pedestrian zone and is lit up like a Christmas tree during the festive season.
The houses around the square were made of wood until the French bombardment of 1695, which destroyed 4,000 buildings and flattened the Place, except for the tower of the Hotel de Ville. The mercantile guilds rebuilt the square in less than five years, this time in stone with details in bronze and gold. Each building is unique, but all blend well together to create a perfect whole. The marks of the different guilds can be seen on the buildings. Look out for the carving of a man diving into a sack above the door of number four – the joiners’ and coopers’ guild.
The Bourse – the old stock exchange – stands a little way from the square, down the rue au Beurre. This is a grand, neo-classical building that boasts statues by Rodin on the top of the decorative frieze. On another side of the Bourse is one of Brussels’ classic cafes, Le Falstaff – a perfect place to nurse another of Belgium’s finest things: its beer, while taking in this café’s fantastic Art Nouveau interior.
