A weekend in the city
Mumbai is built on a peninsula – originally seven islands – and the downtown area is at the bottom. As a result, all traffic and transport feeds in from the outskirts, crowding into the heart of the city - what locals call “town”. This is where you’ll find the historic Gateway of India, the Arc de Triomphe style archway built at the city’s port. It’s a good place to get your bearings.
Nearby is the very grand Victoria station and various old style colonial government buildings. South is the airy suburb of Colaba. West is “Mumbai’s Manhatten” the high-rise business district of Nariman Point, which sits at the southern end of Marine Drive, a sweep of prime real estate fronting the coast. North are the never-ending suburbs.
Mumbai has always been a trader’s city. Historically commerce comes first. This has some intriguing side effects – the city has more public holidays than the rest of India for example because it marks all religious holidays, not only those of the majority.
It’s not hard to fill a spare 48 hours. But unlike many cities with specific destinations, much of the interest in Mumbai is simply watching the city itself. Transport around the city can be tricky – it’s simplest to arrange a car and driver either through your hotel, or negotiate privately with a taxi driver. Once that’s done, you’re off.
“On your first day take a morning city tour to see
Ghandi's house” says Bhasker Patel, Cox and Kings’s India expert. Ghandi stayed here between 1927 and 1934 when he was in the city. It is now a two-storey museum, library and research centre – its simplicity is its most powerful aspect.
“Then take in Crawford market,” says Patel. “It’s a lively bazaar with food and vegetable markets, live animals and interesting shops. “After that, drive up Malabar Hill, the highest point in Mumbai and where India's rich and famous live. Then visit the dhobi ghats.”
The dhobi ghats are Mumbai’s outdoor answer to the spin cycle. Hundreds of laundrymen (dhobis) collect dirty linen from across the city and wash it in outdoor pools. Linen is soaked in soapy water, thrashed on a flogging stone (ghat) and hung out to dry in the blazing sun.
In the afternoon simply walk the city. Take the Gateway of India as a starting point and work your way towards the art deco Regal Cinema. Stop at the oldest pub in Mumbai,
Leopold’s, for a drink – ceiling fans, square tables and Cobra beer make it a great place for people watching.
Continue your exploration west to Marine Drive – taxis are cheap if you get tired – and aim to get to Chowpatty Beach, Mumbai’s city beach, at the top end of Marine Drive, for sunset. This is when the crowds come out, the street food rolls in, and the entertainers step up to their mark. If all has gone well with the day, now is when you might fall a little in love with Mumbai. If not, then it could well be into a taxi and back to the air-con cool of your hotel.
The next day escape from the city. Elephanta Island is famous for seventh century cave temples and carvings and is an hour’s ferry journey from Mumbai. Boats leave from the Gateway to India area and the trip will take up at least half a day.
Or take a
Bollywood tour. These full (on) day or half-day excursions cost $75US, and include a chauffeur-driven car to whisk you round the Indian film industry’s studios. A star spotting lunch at a Bollywood hotspot is included.
24 hours in the city
If you only have a day don’t worry – you can still see a lot of Mumbai. Devika Nanda works for specialist travel agency Ampersand Travel. He grew up in the city and now works in London.
“If I had 24 hours in Mumbai I’d walk from Marine Drive – the Nariman Point end – to Colaba. This takes you past the lovely university buildings, and should take no more than 40 minutes.
“Along the way I’d visit the National Gallery of Modern Art (Mahatma Gandhi Road, +91 22 2285 2457, Tues-Sun 11am-6pm, entry for foreigners R150/£2), as well as Jehangir Art Gallery (161 Mahatma Gandhi Rd, +91 22 2204 8212, daily 11am-7pm) and the private art galleries at Kala Ghoda - this is the up and coming art and entertainment district of Mumbai.
“I’d go on to
Indigo for lunch, which has fantastic food and a very chic atmosphere. Then take a walk along the harbour after lunch, perhaps stopping at the Sea Lounge at the
Taj Mahal Palace and Tower for tea. From there you can see the Gateway of India, and the Sea Lounge is fantastic for its relaxed atmosphere with piano player and lovely service.
“Later in the afternoon I’d drive to Lower Parel for a bit of shopping at the Raghuvanshi Mills and Phoenix Mills compounds - some very trendy shops and you also drive past the race course to get there.
“I’d go to the
Hard Rock Café at the Bombay Dyeing Mills for a drink, which is also in the Lower Parel area. It’s the best Hard Rock Café I have seen yet, and the place to see the local hip crowd.
“After that I’d head back to Marine Drive for dinner at the Salt Water Grill (H20 Water Sports Complex, Next to Mafatlal Swimming Club, Marine Drive, Tel: +91 22 2368 5485) – it’s on the beach and has great food and atmosphere.
“I’d finish with a nightcap at the
Dome, on the rooftop of the Intercontinental Hotel on Marine Drive. It’s buzzing as a lounge bar at night.”
Greg Young is director of Fork Travel
, a new agency specialising in travel and food. He agrees with Devika about the Dome. “It’s one of the most romantic bars in Mumbai and a great place to watch the sun set over the beach.”
His other restaurant tips include, “Dinner at Khyber, one of the best restaurants in Mumbai and probably the equivalent to London’s Ivy in reputation and clientele.”
On that tip, he says, “The best place to blow the budget is Wasabi by Morimoto at the Taj Mahal Palace and Tower Hotel. Okay, it’s not Indian food but it has some of the best Japanese food you’ll find worldwide.”
Otherwise, he adds: “For somewhere to impress, but if you have to watch your expenses, check out Koyla. It’s got a very laid-back vibe and is full of Mumbai's beautiful people.”
For seafood, says Greg, “Trishna's has some of the best at Sai Baba Marg, Fort. Butter pepper garlic king crab is their signature dish, but you'll also find jumbo pomfrets and tiger prawns cooked to perfection.”
And don’t just try the food. Indian wine is a well-kept secret says Greg: “India's growing middle class and the high cost of international imports mean local wine production has improved dramatically. India's leading vineyard Chateau Indage owns the achingly hip Athena restaurant and champagne lounge.” It’s at 41/44 Minoo Desai Marg, Colaba.
And finally, don’t forget to try the street food: “If you are on Chowpatty Beach in the evening try a bowl of Mumbai's most popular snack, bhelpuri. It’s crispy noodles and puffed rice with chutney, and delicious.”
One hour in the city
Even if you only have an hour, Mumbai can impress itself on you. Take a taxi and drive along Marine Drive, up Malabar Hill then back to the Gateway of India and finish at the Taj Mahal Palace and Tower for a drink. If your hour is in the evening, head to Chowpatty Beach for people watching.
If in town, walk from the Gateway of India to the Regal Cinema, take a look at the markets in the backstreets there and practise your bargaining. You’ll never forget your 60 minutes in Mumbai.
