A weekend in the city
Ease yourself into the frenetic Tokyo-paced life by making your first port of call the newly opened five-star Peninsula Tokyo hotel (1-8-1 Yurakucho, Choyoda-ku, +81 3 2828 3888
tokyo.peninsula.com). Drop in for afternoon tea, but be prepared to queue while being dazzled by the architect Kazukiyo Sato’s illuminated, glittering vision of a modern hotel (with a tower designed to look like a lantern). To deal with post-flight stress try a signature Keihatsu Enlightenment massage in the aromatic sixth floor spa – Japan’s first ESPA spa which offers a great range of Ayurvedic treatments (+81 3 100 0006).
Taking in the spectacular Imperial Palace (opposite the Peninsula Tokyo hotel) head south of Tokyo station to Ginza, Tokyo’s central upscale shopping district and an excellent place to sample traditional Japanese food. Botan (1-15 Kanda-Sudacho, Chiyoda-ku, +81 3 3251 0577) is one of Tokyo’s culinary highlights in a traditional Japanese environment. Try torisuki - an Edo period pot stew and make sure to get here early, like many Ginza restaurants it closes at 8.30pm. Finish with a drink at Takara and sample the dizzying selection of sake (3-5-1 Marunouchi, Chiyoda-ku, +81 3 5223 9888, open until 11pm Monday-Friday and until 10pm Saturday and Sunday).
Get up early on Saturday morning for the Tsukiji market (5-2 Tsukiji, chuo-ku, +81 3 3541 2640,
tsukiji-market.or.jp, closed Sunday and every other Wednesday). It opens at 3am but try and be there by 8am at the latest to experience this phenomenal fish market that supplies pretty much all of Tokyo’s sushi. Have a sushi breakfast at one of the stores – Daiwa Sushi (5-2-1 Tsukiji, chuo-ku, +81 3 3547 6807) is the most famous so be prepared for lines. Then head to one of Tokyo’s best photography galleries – the Leica Ginza Salon (Tokaido Bldg, 6-4-1 Ginza, Chuo-ku, +81 3 6215 7070,
leica-camera.us/culture/galeries/gallery_tokyo) - admission is free and they have a good selection of up-and-coming and well-established photographers. Or for traditional Japanese art go to the National Museum of Modern Art (3-1 Kitanomaru-koen, Chuo-ku, +81 3 5777 8600, admission 420 yen, closed Mondays) which has a wealth of art from the Meiji period onwards.
For intense Saturday night fever, head to Roppongi, perhaps the least Japanese part of Japan but with the emphasis firmly placed on fun. Try Kisso (Axis Bldg, 5-17-1 Roppongi, Minato-ku) a contemporary, urban restaurant with Japan’s traditional haute cuisine – kaiseki ryori. Order the omakase (chef’s choice) for a ceremonial experience. After dinner hotfoot it to the Lexington Queen (lovingly referred to as The Lex), which was one of Ropppongi’s first discos and is still a
bit of a celeb haunt. (Goto Bldg, 3-13-14 Roppongi, Minato-ku. +81 3 3401 1661 lexingtonqueen.com, cover charge from 2000 yen, 8pm-2am) or go to Abbey Road (Roppongi Annex Bldg, 4-11-5 Roppongi, Minato-ku, +81 3 3402 0017
abbeyroad.ne.jp, Monday-Thursday, 6pm-midnight, Fri and Sat 6pm-1am, cover charge: 1600-2100 yen) It’s one of the two Ropponogi clubs with uncannily good live Beatles tribute bands. Book ahead if possible, especially at the weekend.
Sunday mornings are perfect to stroll around the beautiful Imperial Palace gardens, taking in the tea gardens and open lawns - although the actual Imperial Palace is only open to the public one day a year – on January 1.
Spend the afternoon in Harajuku, the heart pulse of Tokyo. Start from the Harajuku JR station and take the Takeshita exit to Takeshita-dori – a treasure trove of teenage gear where the world’s cool hunters flock to get their inspiration. Try Hysteric Glamour (6-23-2 Jingumae, Shibuya-ku, +81 3 3409 7227) for a temple to the Harajuku Girl style. Walk down Omote-Sando towards the grown-up, impeccably chic Aoyoma end for Chanel, Prada and Tokyo’s beloved Louis Vuitton. The Prada store in particular is jaw-dropping, designed by Swiss architects Herzog and de Meuron. (5-2-5 Minami-Aoyoma, Monato-Ku, +81 3 107 0062) Don’t forget to pay a visit to the grand Japanese designers Issey Miyake (3-18-11 Minami-Aoyama, Minato-ku, +81 3 3423 1407 10am-8pm), Comme des Garcons (5-2-1 Minami –Aoyama, Minato-ku, +81 3 3406 3951 11am-8pm) and Yohji Yamamoto (5-3-6 Minami –Aoyama, Minato-ku, +81 3 3409 6006 11am-8pm) – for clothing two-thirds of the price back at home.
24 hours in the city
If time is limited and you want to get a real feel for the buzz and craziness of trend-obsessed Tokyo, then head straight to vibrant Shibuya where much of Sofia Coppola’s love story to Tokyo - Lost In Translation - was shot. Shibuya is famous for its cornucopia of department stores, shops, cinemas, restaurants and bars, as well as its head-turning tribes of cool young things, like the Mambas or Gonguru (blackface) girls (deep fake tans, white-blonde hair and white eye make up, worn with denim hotpants and high boots) or the Ogals (clashing prints, crazy bracelets and obi belts).
Department stores in Tokyo cater much more to the quick turnover of trends consumed by its youth than in most cities. Shibuya 109 (2-29-1 Dogenzaka, +81 3 3477 5111) is a great place to soak up modern Japanese style from saturated coloured minidresses that all the gyaru are wearing or the bunched up ankle socks that make for the classic Japanese schoolgirl look. Tokyo Hands (12-18 Udagawacho Shibuya-ku, +81 3 5489 5111) is Sir Terence Conran’s favourite store and was branded by Grazia “the most exciting shop on the planet”. It has everything you could ever think of, and plenty of things you didn’t even know you wanted, from hardware, toys, games, furniture, quirky gadgets and gizmos galore, as well as crazy clocks, shark suits kitchenware and gorgeous stationery. Make a quick stop to Tower Records (1-22-14 Jinnan, Shibuya-ku, +81 3 3496 3661), which is open until 11pm. Yes, it’s a chain but this Tower is Tokyo’s biggest music store and gets absolutely packed. For a good selection of English magazines and books go to the 7th floor, there’s an extensive selection of journals from around the world, and magazines are considerably cheaper here than elsewhere in town.
For lunch drop into Waraziya (3-11 Udogauacho) which offers very reasonably priced Japanese food with a traditional atmosphere. It has menus in English (as opposed to picture menus), which is a rarity in Tokyo. If you’re feeling adventurous the best way to sample traditional Japanese cuisine is to wander down the little side streets in Shibuya-ku, which are packed with small Izakaya (Japanese taverns) serving mostly locals. Try Kaikaya (23-7 Maruyamacho, Shibuya-ku, +81 3 3770 0878) which has excellent seasonal fish dishes that incorporate fusion elements without losing too much of the food’s essential Japanese feel.
After lunch, head to some of Shibuya’s many arcades and have a go at Pachinko – mini pinball games which are highly addictive, especially amongst Tokyo’s retired population. Or wander around the Hara Museum of Contemporary Art for modern art by international and local avant-garde artists alike. (4-7-25 Kita-Shinagawa, Shinagawa-ku, +81 3 3445 0651
haramuseum.or.jp/generalTop.html). Recent exhibitions included Gilbert and George and Cindy Sherman. It’s a 15 minute walk from Shinagawa station and there’s a good map on the website.
If you don’t fancy eating Japanese, escape for dinner to one of Shibuya-ku’s many western establishments such as TGI Fridays (1-19-3 Jinnan), or the excellent The Aegean (3-18-3 Shibuya) - Tokyo’ only Greek restaurant. Sonoma (2-25-17 Dogenzaka, Shibuya-ku, +81 3 3462 7766) has great, Californian cuisine in a warm, well-lit atmosphere and offers mains such as pork chops with apples, brown sugar and sage or pan-seared salmon with herb risotto. Eating here also gains you free entry to the Ruby Room – a funky dj bar and cocktail lounge above Sonoma with an interesting, international crowd that stays open until 4.30am (+81 3 3780 3022,
rubyroomtokyo.com).
To make your 24 hours stretch even further end up at Womb or ‘Oomu’ as the Japanese pronounce it. (2-16 Maruyama-cho, Shibuya-ku, +81 3 5459 0039,
womb.co.jp). Costing between 1500-4000 yen, it’s one of Tokyo’s hottest clubs boasting four floors of drum ‘n’ bass, house and techno where the beautiful people go to dance. Pick up a flyer from a Shibuya record shop beforehand, or print one from their website and they’ll knock 500-1000 yen off the cover price.
One hour in the city
Tokyo is one of the fastest-paced, energetic and consumer-crazy places in the world. But it doesn’t have to be like that. If you have just one hour to spare cut loose from the tourists and seek sanctuary at the beautiful Shinto Meiji-jingu shrine near Shibuya, regarded by many as the spiritual home of Tokyo (1-1 Yoyogi Kamizonocho, Shibuya-ku, +81 3 3379 5511, admission free, open dawn until dusk
meijijingu.or.jp/english).
Shintoism and Buddhism are Japan’s two major religions and have co-existed peacefully and influenced each other for more than a thousand years. Meiji-jingu is undoubtedly one of the most impressive Shinto shrines - it was built in honour of Emperor Meiji and Empress Shoken and completed in 1920. After being almost completely destroyed in World War II it was then rebuilt in 1958 complete with many original features using Japanese Cypress wood.
Stunningly beautiful, it feels a lot more Japanese than most of Tokyo, and locals and gaijin (foreigners) alike are to be found taking part in the sacred water cleansing. A great place to visit if you’re travelling alone as it’s very much a solitary experience – follow the instructions in Japanese and English besides the water to perform your own cleansing ritual. Shinto (Japan’s native religion) has an animistic tradition which views the environment as one inhabited by kami (god or spirits). You can watch the monks perform Shinto ceremonies and the whole experience is welcoming and tranquil – a million miles away from say visiting the Duomo in Milan or the Notre Dame in Paris.
In the grounds, you’ll also find the Meiji-jingu-gyoen (admission 500 yen, 9am-4.30pm) an ornate garden created by Emperor Meiji as a gift to his wife. It’s also worth taking a look at the Treasure Museum (admission 300 yen, 9am-4pm Saturday and Sunday) which hosts imperial artefacts, such as ceremonial clothing worn by the Emperor and Empress. Surrounding the shrine is the gorgeous Meiji-jingu Koen park, next to Yoyogi-koen park, a popular weekend destination for families.
